Road Base Area m2 x .1 = Vol. m3 and add extra so the compacted road base is wider than the area to be paved by approx. 100mm.
Time spent in preparing the site will be well rewarded in the long run. Your paving will be only as good as its foundation. The base must be firm. Hollow and low areas must be filled and compacted using a plate compactor. Excavate the area to be paved to the depth of the paver plus approximately 30mm to 50mm for bedding sand. Be sure to allow a fall for draining. Set all string lines first to establish a level starting point, then adjust for drainage falls as shown below. It’s a good idea to get a ‘bobcat’ in to prepare the site for you, particularly if it is a driveway or large pergola. Slope paving away from house of building and allow for final paving surface to be below any damp-proof course.
Place bedding sand and spread evenly over area to be paved to a depth of 50mm allowing 8mm for settlement on compaction. Spread with a rake. Don’t try to compact the sand as it does not compact in a loose state.. Compaction comes later. Set string lines to desired levels and set screed rails accordingly.
Work to the pattern you have chosen (see back page) by building it forward in rows. As you lay each paver, do it carefully so the even bed of sand is not disturbed. Lower each paver against the face of its neighbour. This is called butt-jointing but will actually leave a small gap between the pavers. This gap will be needed as you will see later. As you work you can stand or sit on the pavers you have already laid. But avoid putting any weight on the leading row of pavers as they can tilt or slip and ruin your even bed of sand. It’s also a good idea to walk on a few pieces of 3 ply board measuring approx. 500mm square. This is the time to include the header or soldier course in the design of your pavers. We think it is important, as it both looks professional and helps you start with a good straight line. Running a string line for every metre of pavers laid will help you keep your job nice and straight. The idea is to adjust the pavers each metre to prevent bows from developing.
As you work you will find you will have spaces too small for a whole paver. To fill these holes you’ll need to cut a paver to size. Just measure and make the required cuts on the paver itself. Then you can make the required cuts by using a wet saw. These can be hired for the afternoon from your local hire store. The cut piece should fit neatly, leaving a small gap all around just like the full paving units. Remember to wear safety glasses.
The edge restraint locks in the pavers at the edge. Without a restraint these edge pavers could loosen and slip out of position. Of the several different ways to build an edge restraint, one of the simplest is the hidden concrete kerb. Dig a trench along the paving edge. It must be deeper than the bedding sand into the roadbase. Concrete is then shovelled in place and formed against the pavers allowing sufficient space for soil and turf. When it dries, you will be able to cover this kerb with soil and plant grass right up to the paving edge. Make sure the concrete does not go under the pavers as it will prevent compaction in the next step. Be careful not to get concrete on the surface of your pavers as it is almost impossible to remove. If you do, sponge off quickly. Also leave the edge restraint to go hard overnight before compacting.
The best way to lock the paving in place is with a plate vibrator or compactor machine which compacts the bedding sand. Make sure you have carpet underneath the compactor. However for small areas, manual compacting using a rubber mallet, a good piece of hardwood and a bit of sweat will achieve the desired results. Before you start compacting, spread some joint filling sand or gap sand over the pavers. This helps the plate slide easily and minimises any scratching. You’ll actually be doing 3 things. First you’re compacting the sand into a firm bed for your concrete pavers and secondly, the vibration forces sand up into the gaps between the pavers, locking them in so they won’t shift. Thirdly, the gap or joint filling sand will go down in between the pavers to further block them up. This also achieves the gap between pavers required by the manufacturers.
With the compaction completed, sweep some more joint filling sand or gap sand across the paving and work it into the gaps as you go. Then finally sweep the excess sand off the paved area. You may now want to give it a light hosing down.
Buy all your pavers from one place and from the same batch if possible, to avoid differences in colour that can result from different batches. If you can’t buy all in one batch, mix the pavers up before laying. Please note: pavers may also displa a “whitening” otherwise known as efflorescence effect. This is a characteristic of many masonry products and does diminish over time. If you have any trouble working out the quantities of each paver you need, PlaceMakers offers a free estimation service.
Like any building job, you’ve got to get the foundations right. Extensive areas of paving, particularly where large areas of soft topsoil have to be dug out, require large volumes of materials. There are four main materials:
On smaller sites, piles of materials can crowd the area you want to pave. If that’s the case, take delivery of the later stage materials only as you are ready to use them. That means digging out and laying the base course material first, then get the bedding sand and pavers delivered.
Some pavers can only withstand pedestrian use. Others will take light vehicle traffic. Even stronger pavers will handle heavy vehicles. Check the specifications with PlaceMakers.
Your choice should suit the size and shape of the area being paved. Laying pattern: Again, this should suit the area being paved. Laying options include: 45 degree herringbone, stretcherbond, basketweave, soldier courses along the edges
A. Determine the finished level of the highest part of your paving. Against buildings, that should be at least 150mm below the level of concrete floors, or below the ground level under timber floors. From there, your paving should slope between 15mm to 30mm per metre away from the building. This prevents puddling or running under buildings.
B. Dig out the area to be paved to the combined depth of the three layers, i.e. pavers depth plus bedding sand and base course depths.
Base course is the only variable. It is the foundation of your paving. The thickness of the base course depends on the firmness of the underlying ground, or “sub-grade”. Soft sub-grade has to be dug out deeper because it needs a thicker base course than hard sub-grade. To test the sub-grade, dig down to about 200mm in several places within the planned paved area, then test the hardness of the sub-grade by walking on and stamping your heel into it. Refer to tables over-page.
Even after excavating, the sub-grade might have holes that need filling to bring it up to the desired level. Fill these with base material, and compact in layers no more than 100mm thick using a plate compactor or a rammer for small areas. Thorough compaction is vital especially at edges. The finished sub-grade level should be within 20mm of the contour of the finished paving.
This should also be laid in layers no thicker than 100mm and compacted to a uniform dense condition, especially around manholes and kerbs. The finished texture of the base course should not allow bedding sand to filter through. The final surface of the base course should match the contour of your finished paving with no bumps, and no holes deeper than 10mm.
Bedding sand supports your pavers, but will not hide irregularities in the base course. It should be coarse river sand (not beach sand), and damp but not wet.
PHOENIX PAVINGDon’t compact bedding sand directly. It compacts under the pavers. To test how much the thickness will reduce, spread some sand over a small area. Lay a paver on top and thump that with a rubber hammer. The resulting reduction in sand thickness will tell you how much your sand compacts.
Pave in manageable sized areas. Spread sand only over an area you know you can finish in one session and get to without walking on. Spread the sand to slightly more than the depth your rubber hammer test indicated would produce a compacted sand depth of between 20mm and 30mm. You will usually need to start with the un-compacted sand bed between 5mm and 10mm thicker than its compacted depth.
Screed the sand to a uniform level. As with any screeding, you need temporary guides or runners at each side to run your screed board on.
If you have already laid a Soldier or Kerb course, you may be able to use that to support your runners. If the area to be paved is too wide you’ll need to drive pegs, and fix your runners to them, just like concrete boxing (see below).
Start from the straightest convenient edge, and lay your pavers with a space of 2mm to 4mm between them. Some pavers have spacer nibs which achieve that automatically. The space allows joint sand to penetrate around the pavers. Always start at the bottom of sloped areas.
Lay all full pavers first: then cut and lay any pieces. Cut pavers with a diamond concrete saw, paver splitter (both available from hire centres) or, for small areas, a bolster.
Don’t run vehicles over the paving until it’s completely finished. To get a loaded wheelbarrow across, lay heavy planks down as running boards.
Don’t run vehicles over the paving until it’s completely finished. To get a loaded wheelbarrow across, lay heavy planks down as running boards.
Your pavers now need to be consistently compacted over the whole area. Include a minimum of three passes with compactor each at 90 degrees to each other.
For a small area, use a rubber hammer on a short length of heavy timber: say a piece of 150 x 50mm. For most other jobs, use a plate compactor.
When the pavers are all compacted, sweep joint sand over the whole area and compact again. The compactor will drive the sand into the joints. Keep sweeping and compacting until all joints are filled.
Joint sand should be fine dry plaster sand with angular particles that lock well together. It is also sold as paving sand and some types incorporate a weed preventative.
In most cases maintenance will be minimal. If some pavers settle unevenly, or if underground services need to be exposed, your paving may require re-laying. To do this simply follow the procedures given above. It would pay to add a layer of weed matting below the sand layer to stop any weeds that could grow up and between your pavers. Where paving is cleaned or has water running across it the joint sand may require topping up periodically. To enhance the appearance of your paving special sealers are available. These may require reapplication over time. Ask at your PlaceMakers Firth Centre.
NOTE: Building or landscaping work may have to comply with the New Zealand Building Code and your local Council requirements. Talk to the building inspectors at your council. They can provide helpful details of such matters and say whether or not a permit is required for the work you wish to do.
Check the height of the surface to be paved, take measurements and draw plans. Set the paving below the fl oor level and slightly sloped away from the house, or areas that you would want to keep water away from.
If the ground is firm and well compacted excavate to a depth of 75mm, then move to next step. If soft or a fi lled site, excavate 75-100mm deeper and add 75-100mm of top course and compact well with a plate compactor.
Spread and level a fi ne loose bedding sand, dampen and lightly compact. Then screed level and choose your laying pattern. This method is quick, easy and if the levelling is done well, gives a great fi nish.
